Sea of Green
Published: 09/25/2010  Updated: 06/20/2019

Blackfish Cafe builds its menu around the day's fresh herbs and greens delivered by local gardeners.

Rob Pounding, chef and owner of Blackfish Cafe in Lincoln City, opens the door to the walk-in cooler and pulls the top off a plastic tub packed with fresh herbs and greens delivered that day from his supplier. In this case, the supplier is gardener Hugh Rackleff of Yachats. "He would make a good story for you," Pounding says. He explains this isn't a "place an order" kind of relationship. Rackleff delivers what is available fresh and Pounding builds his menu items around those high quality ingredients. Today, Pounding pairs a beautiful piece of pan-seared Oregon halibut with braised greens from Rackleff, atop a rustic potato salad. The halibut is simply seasoned with a perfectly seared crust and the braised broccoli rabe and Russian kale add a bright freshness and texture with nutty and bitter notes that play off the other flavors. The potato salad is no average picnic variety, it's livened up with a stone ground mustard vinaigrette, sage and bacon. Rackleff's greens are also used in an arugula emulsion that can be mixed with any of the ingredients for an added complexity of flavor. Fried leeks add a crunchy component to the combination. To pair with the dish, a 2008 Domaine Pouillon, Blanc du Moulin was recommended by Wine Steward Lori Bean. The Washington State wine is 80 percent Roussanne and 20 percent Viognier from Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The wine bursts with floral notes that give way to a lingering, slightly citrus finish with a touch of almond. With the food, the floral flavors of the wine were not so forward, hinting more at subtle honey, stonefruit and pear. At $36 for the bottle or $9 for a glass at Blackfish, this delicious pairing is affordable, too. Blackfish Cafe 2733 NW Hwy 101, Lincoln City (541) 996-1007
Sea of Green